A walk in the rain along the Saalach

Hiking with rubber boots & hood

Water is life - Antoine de Saint-Exupéry knew that and without rain even  water- rich rivers like the Saalach would run dry and the verdant meadows would dry out. I join the raindrops and walk from Lofer to St. Martin in the Salzburger Saalachtal. Anyone who consciously engages with the rain will be pleasantly surprised by how much fun a walk in the rain can be.


In clear weather I probably wouldn't be able to get enough of the views of the rocky flanks of the Loferer Steinberge.  My glance would always wander off into the distance but today the mountains are nowhere to be seen so my attention is focussed on the immediate surroundings and I absorb every detail of the fauna and flora along the Saalach. I can almost hear the whooping of the plants. Rain is pure refreshment as the air is washed clean of dust and pollen.  

Detour to the  Strohwollner Schlucht

There is a fountain in the middle of the little farming hamlet of Scheffsnoth and I am more than happy to quench my thirst here with this pure spring water. While I enjoy the cool water, I admire the beautiful farmhouses all around.  Abundant flowers adorn the old wooden balconies and the small farm gardens are spilling over with colourful, glorious blooms.  I turn back to the Saalach on a walking trail and am surprised how calm the water is in this part of the river.  While the other part of the Saalach was incredibly wild and rough, here the river reveals its relaxed and tame side. I walk in the direction of Strohwolln, past the Grubhof campsite and spontaneously decide to take a detour to the Strohwollner Schlucht. Thanks to the rain, this gorge is even more impressive than on dry days and I enjoy the view from the wooden walkways down to the wild, foaming water. I need about 40 minutes to ascend through the gorge and return via a walking path. The raindrops are becoming larger and the drizzle starts to turn into the infamous heavy Salzburger “string“ rain. This time I leave out the Kneipp facility in St. Martin because cold water on my legs would be a little bit too much of a good thing today.  

Return via the Moor

My way back from St. Martin leads me alongside the Moosbach. Here peat is still dug to be used at Gasthof Hochmoos for healing peat packs. I return to Lofer via the Gumpinger Moos with its many small hay barns.  Slowly the clouds begin to lift and a couple of sunrays make their way through the subsiding rain. I feel reinvigorated by this walk and am looking forward to stopping for some hearty regional specialities.  But before that I must do something which I have been longing to do for the whole of the walk. I take a run-up and jump with a great shout and both feet into a big puddle. A fountain of water sprays up around me and a cyclist riding past laughs knowingly, “Inside we are all still the child who loves the rain because of the puddles!“  

Postet from
Edith Danzer
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